Does YourHorse Like Your Saddle?

April 30th, 2012

Julie Goodnight

Horsemanship Training

Goodnight Training Stables, Inc.

PO Box 397

Poncha Springs, CO 81242

press@juliegoodnight.com

(719) 530-0531

 Does Your Horse Like Your Saddle?

At a recent clinic weekend, I met a lovely woman, MaryAnn, who had hauled her Paint mare eight hours to get to my clinic. MaryAnn was a sponge of a student—my favorite kind. She was knowledgeable, experienced and a very good rider who couldn’t learn enough. We always do introductions at the start of my clinics and she stated then that her horse bucked at the canter. That’s never a good thing. I was eager to find out why this horse was bucking and see what we could do to help the problem. I wondered right away if this was a personality issue, training issue or had to do with her physical build and the saddle’s fit. Too often, I see horses that learn to fear or dislike the canter because they feel pain from the saddle as soon as they enter the fast gait.

Knowing MaryAnn’s concern, I kept an eye on the mare while the whole group practiced groundwork and manners. I wondered if the mare had a touch of what I call PMS: Pissy Mare Syndrome. Some mares can be kind of cranky and bossy, but overall the horse was doing what MaryAnn asked of her and seemed to have a good handle on the mare. I began to rule out a personality issue as the cause of her bucking.

It wasn’t until after lunch that I first saw the mare under-saddle. As we warmed up at the walk and trot I didn’t see much that concerned me; although the mare was a little cranky, she did everything asked of her. I was eager to see this horse canter and find out more about what could be causing the problem.

The first time I ask people to canter–in a clinic with 15 horses that are unfamiliar to me–I always ask them to canter two or three at a time, with the other horses walking on the rail. That keeps my blood pressure down. When it was MaryAnn’s turn to canter, her horse stepped right up to the canter on the correct lead, but as she proceeded around the arena, it was obvious the mare was not happy. She was crow-hopping around like a pogo stick with her tail wringing like a propeller. The mare didn’t warm out of it and get used to the gait. She stayed at the canter, but no one looked happy or relaxed. Taking a closer look at the picture, I could see it was a physical problem—a saddle fit issue.

MaryAnn had a very nice saddle with a Wade tree—a popular kind of Western saddle that is built up in front with a deep seat to help keep the rider seated. Very popular amongst colt-starters, for the same reason MaryAnn liked it—helps you ride through the bucks. Although it was the right saddle for MaryAnn, it just wasn’t the right saddle for the mare.

When I evaluate the saddle fit on a horse, the overall balance is important, as well as checking some specific areas on the horse. If I step a few paces back and look at the horse from the side, I want to see the saddle (be it English or Western) sitting level on the horse’s back. If it is sitting downhill, the horse’s shoulders or withers could be uncomfortable, once you add the weight of the rider, and if it is sitting uphill, the horse may be getting undue pressure at his loins. In either case, the rider’s balance and position is impaired when the saddle does not sit level and balanced on the horse.

I could see from looking at MaryAnn’s saddle, and the uphill slant, that the horse was getting a lot of pressure on the loins from the way the saddle fit her. It is not surprising that the mare protested the canter; she has to round up her back and lift it with each canter stride; not to mention that the rider’s weight can come down hard on the saddle at the canter.

I tactfully suggested that perhaps MaryAnn might like to try the demo saddle I had brought to the clinic (a saddle I designed, made by Circle Y). I knew the saddle she had was not cheap, nor was it the first one she had purchased for this mare. I know the thought of getting yet another saddle to resolve this problem was not what she wanted to hear. But of course she listened and tried out the new saddle.

It was at the end of the first day—all the horses and riders were beat and headed for the barn, but quite a few spectators stuck around to see what happened when MaryAnn tried the new saddle. She trotted a circle or two and cued her horse up to the canter. Although the mare still seemed tense and tight in the back—there was a noticeable improvement. MaryAnn was eager to try the saddle again the next day.

The next day, MaryAnn saddled her horse with my Monarch Arena Performance/Trail saddle. We spent a long time working at the walk and trot and when she cued her horse for the canter. The mare cantered smoothly, with her back relaxed and her ears perked forward. Gone was the crow-hopping, wringing tail and pinned ears. MaryAnn went home with a brand new saddle and a big smile on her face.

It’s amazing how often horses work day in and day out with ill-fitting and inappropriate equipment. Imagine working on your feet all day in shoes that caused you pain. Did you ever notice the number of horse’s that have white spots on their backs? Did you know those white hairs are damaged hair folicles caused from pressure points? Sometimes, when the fit-issue is fixed, the hair color comes back but over time the scars become permanent.

The other things that are important to check on the saddle are the clearance at the withers (can you stick your whole hand in there?)—even the pad pressing on the withers can cause painful pressure. Check to make sure it is not pinching at the withers at the front of the tree and, in the case of Western saddles, that it is not too long for the horse and or pressing into the loins or hips.

Most of the saddles in my line of saddles made by Circle Y have a Flex2 tree. Although the flexible tree is not suitable for all riders (you can’t rope in it; the rider must weigh under 230 pounds), it offers greater comfort to the horse and fits a wider variety of horses than a traditional wood tree Western saddle. It has enough rigidity to distribute the weight of the rider while flexing enough to conform somewhat to the horse’s back. As the bars of the tree flex slightly, the front of the bars open up just a little, giving the horse much more freedom in the shoulders.

Since I have a demo saddle with me everywhere I go, I’ve tried it on a lot of different horses around the country and have been very impressed by the fit and balance to most horses. The design of my saddles also takes the rider into consideration—the saddle should be fitted to horse AND rider and be comfortable for both. So for the rider, my saddles have a very narrow twist (the part that is just in front of the seat), close contact to the horse’s sides, the highest quality pre-softened leather, pre-twisted stirrups and memory foam in the seat.

The seat size of the saddle should be comfortable for the rider—neither riding on the cantle or crowded by the pommel. With Western saddles, styles vary so greatly that you probably need to sit in a saddle to know for sure how it fits you. The stirrups should be the right size for your feet with the leathers short or long enough so that you ride in the middle hole. The width of the saddle is important too—you should not feel outward pressure on your seat bones or get the feeling that your legs are being wedged apart. The comfort and balance of your saddle are huge factors in how well you ride so these are things you don’t want to compromise on.

There is much to know about saddle fit, for both horse and rider, and I always appreciate advice from professional saddle fitters. I am by no means and expert but after decades in the business and working with thousands of horses and riders, I’ve developed an eye for it. If you’re not sure about the fit of your tack, consult a professional and get the best advice you can. If your horse has “issues” under-saddle, always consider a physical cause first. If you have “issues” in your riding, you may want to check your saddle.

I’m glad I could help MaryAnn and her mare and I look forward to hearing more about how they progress.

Enjoy the ride,

Julie

 

Find more free articles to read and refer to in Julie’s Training Library: http://juliegoodnight.com/q&a.php and watch Horse Master on RFD-TV every Monday at 12:30 and 10:30p EST —Direct TV channel 345, Dish Network channel 231 and on many cable outlets. Then visit http://www.horsemaster.tv and http://www.juliegoodnight.com/clinics for the clinic schedule, articles related to each episode, the gear used in each show, and for training DVDs and publications. Plus, see clips from each show at: http://www.horsemaster.juliegoodnight.com and check out specials and even more clips on Goodnight’s Facebook Fan Page: http://www.facebook.com/horsemaster.tv. Sign up for his free monthly newsletter at: http://juliegoodnight.com/emailsignup.php. Goodnight is proud to recommend Myler Bits, Nutramax Laboratories, Circle Y Saddles, Redmond Equine, Bucas Blankets and Spalding Fly Predators. Goodnight is the spokesperson for the Certified Horsemanship Association.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in May 2012 | No Comments »

Tack Check – Part 2

April 30th, 2012

Palm Partnership Training™

Building a Partnership with your Horse

Tack Check – Part 2

By

Lynn Palm

            Staying safe is your highest priority whenever you’re riding. Before you hit the trail, it’s wise to do a quick, but thorough, check of all your tack and equipment. This month, we continue our tack check before mounting up.

Bridle

Either a leather or nylon bridle, with the headstall secured with a brow band and throatlatch, is suitable for trail riding. I recommend adding a cavesson (noseband) when riding English and using a snaffle bit. The cavesson will keep your horse from opening his mouth and, therefore, provide you with more control. (If your horse can open his mouth, he can evade bit pressure because a snaffle works off the sides of his mouth.)

A combination halter/bridle is good for the trail. I usually put a well-fitting nylon halter on underneath the horse’s headstall, especially on young or “hot” horses. A young or “hot” horse may have additional “inner energy” that needs to be released while on the trail. If that is the case, you can stop on the trail in an open area, attach a longe line that you have brought, and longe him until he has released his excess energy. (In my book, Training Outside the Box, I covered in detail how to release your horse’s inner energy.)

If you do put a nylon halter underneath the headstall, make sure the halter is fitted high enough (one inch under each cheekbone) to prevent the bit from pinching. The halter also is convenient if you want to tie your horse when you stop on the trail. Take along a heavy duty lead line.

Reins

On the trail, I like to ride with 5/8-inch wide split-leather reins made from bridle leather. I prefer these reins because they are a good fit for a woman’s hands, but rein choice is a personal preference. Round reins are my second choice, but I always prefer leather over nylon. Nylon is slick, while leather gives the rider a better grip and contact. However, in rainy weather, leather also can become slippery, so then nylon would be the better choice. I carry an extra set of reins in my saddlebag in case the first set gets wet. If you ride English, braided reins offer a good grip.

If you ride with a single rein, they should be long enough that when you pick them up there is a good 6 to 12 inches of “bite” (the part of the rein that hangs down). This extra length gives you adjustment options and allows you to maintain a loose rein or light contact when you only need relaxed control. Barrel racing and roping reins are too short for trail riding.

Hardware

Use buckles or leather lacing, rather than snaps, to attach the reins to the bit. A sensitive or nervous horse may be stimulated even more by jiggling snaps. If you have to use snaps, make sure the weight of the snap is not heavier that the rein weight. If it is, it will move constantly and send vibrations to the bit, and you can imagine how annoying that can be to a horse. The vibrations also interfere with clear rein cues. If you are presently using snaps and your horse mouths the bit a lot or is nervous, replace the snaps with leather lacing and you might notice a big improvement.

Bit

Ride in the least severe bit that still allows you to have control of your horse. Riders tend to use more bit then they need, especially on the trail where they fear loss of control. However, a more severe bit enhances the horse’s sensitivity and response. On the trail, your horse is stimulated by the new surroundings and he will be more reactive to the bit. So, instead of getting more control with a more severe bit, you can actually have less control.

Use the same bit on the trail that you use in the arena. If your horse performs well in a sidepull, bosal, or hackamore, they are good for trail riding too. If your horse is comfortable with the bit, his mouth, head and neck carriage, and neck muscles will be relaxed, and his eye will be soft. If your horse’s mouth is constantly moving or his neck is tense or he tosses his head, you may not have him in the correct bit.

Even the correct bit will not be comfortable if is it is not adjusted properly. Make sure that the bit you are using fits your horse’s mouth and is adjusted properly in his mouth. It should not sit too low in the mouth, and there should one wrinkle in the corners of his mouth, just above the bit.

If you ride in a curb bit, use a plain leather curb strap with buckles on both sides for ease of adjustment. A properly-fitted curb strap will create just the right leverage to work on the bars of your horse’s lower jaw. If the strap is too tight, it places constant tension on the bit. If it is too loose, the bit loses leverage. Make sure you can slip two fingers under the strap and slide them along your horse’s chin.

Remember that any bit, even if it fits well and is adjusted properly, can be abusive depending on the rider’s hands. Because riders tend to be tenser on the trail, it is important to be conscious of the pressure you are putting on your horse’s mouth and keep reminding yourself to relax your hands and wrists.

If you ride in hilly terrain, a breastcollar will prevent your saddle from slipping back when going uphill. Look for a well-made, leather breastcollar, and properly adjust it to fit your horse. It should fit snugly—not too tight and never loose. It should rest above your horse’s point of the shoulder. If it sits too low over the point of the shoulder, it will restrict his movement and cause him pain. The front center ring should rest right at the base of his neck. If it is any lower, the breastcollar is sitting too low.

Many trail-training lessons can be found in my book, Training Outside the Box. This, along with many other helpful training materials, can be found at www.lynnpalm.com, or by calling 800-503-2824.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in May 2012 | No Comments »

How Do You Prevent Herd-Bound Behavior?

April 30th, 2012

Julie Goodnight Horsemanship Training

Goodnight Training Stables, Inc.

PO Box 397

Poncha Springs, CO 81242

press@juliegoodnight.com

(719) 530-0531

How Do You Prevent Herd-Bound Behavior? 

Julie Goodnight takes on topics you want to know more about in her blog. Here, in this excerpt from her blog, she talks about how to avoid and overcome her-bound behavior and enjoy a ride alone with your horse—without him pulling toward the barn or constantly searching for friends. For more thoughts from Julie, watch her Horse Master TV show each Monday and Saturday night on RFD-TV and read more from her blog at http://JulieGoodnight.com/blog.

High Res Photo of Julie: http://juliegoodnight.com/images/JulieandDually.jpg or http://juliegoodnight.com/images/ByHeidiNylandforTroxel_MG_8927.jpg (NEW BIO PICTURE CHOICES)

Photo Credit: Heidi Nyland Melocco, www.wholepicture.org 

Julie’s Blogs and Thoughts:

Horses are instinctively herd-bound. It’s one of seven categories of instinctive behavior in horses and it is known as gregarious behavior. Quite simply, it’s desire to be with others. (By the way, the other categories of instinctive behavior in horses are flight, combative, ingestive, eliminative, reproductive and investigative behaviors.) Yet, even though gregarious behavior is instinctive in horses, somehow we speak of it as an affliction. Barn-sour, gate-sour, buddy-sour, herd-bound, spoiled and even “ruined.” Horses are instinctively drawn to the herd; it’s up to us to provide the training and leadership the horse needs to transfer this draw to us instead of his own herd.

What motivates the horse to be with the herd are two simple things: safety and comfort. That’s what horses seek out the most and that is what motivates their behavior. Teaching the horse that he will get those two things from you, even more than he does from the herd, is the secret to success. Unless and until your horse gets the same feeling from you that he does from the herd, he will not want to go anywhere with you.

For your horse, a sense of safety comes from being in the presence of a truly alpha leader, an individual that is confident, aware of the environment, in charge and in control of all those around. An individual that dictates and enforces rules and is fair and consistent in punishment and reward, thus providing structure and meaning to an otherwise chaotic world.

Comfort comes in the form of feeling of accepted, reassurance, rest, praise and stroking. Discomfort comes from having to work hard, admonishment or aversive pressure such as the bump of the lead rope. Make your horse comfortable when he does the right thing and uncomfortable when he does the wrong thing. He will always seek out comfort.

Keep in mind that all behavior in all animals, is either instinctive or learned. Horses are extremely fast learning animals and highly sensitive to their environment. Sometimes instinctive behavior can turn to learned behavior over time or on the very first instance.

For example, if a horse is being led away from the barn and the safety of the herd, he might become emotional and distraught (instinct) and his antics may cause him to break free from the handler and run all the way back to the safety and comfort of the barn. From this experience, he may learn that all he has to do is break away from his handler to get what he wants and thus it becomes a learned behavior.

A riding horse is considered to be well-trained and obedient when it goes in the exact path dictated by the rider and at the speed dictated by the rider. A horse is disobedient when it voluntarily varies from the path or speeds up or slows down, unauthorized by the rider. Almost always, when a horse varies path or speed, it is intentional and in a direction he wants to go, like toward the barn/gate/buddy.

It has become increasingly obvious to me, through the decades I’ve spent teaching people to handle their horses, that most people are totally unaware of the small infractions horses make all the time, particularly as it applies to barn-sour behavior. When small disobediences are ignored, it leads to bigger ones. If they are corrected, the barn-sour behavior goes away.

Does your horse pull toward the gate? Is he looking around all the time, never focusing on you and the path you have dictated? Does he slow down when you pass the gate and speed up as you round the corner toward the gate? Does he turn easily toward the gate and sluggishly when you turn away? These are all small and subtle disobediences—even if he only varies the path by six inches, he knows he’s doing it and he knows when you ignore it (or don’t notice it) and therefore you condone the disobedience.

All a rider needs to do to stop this disobedient behavior is first and foremost—notice it—be aware of what your horse is doing with his whole body at all times and be aware of what motivates him. Then, call him on it (“I know what you’re doing!”) and admonish him appropriately—finding the amount of pressure that motivates him to change.

When you ride in the arena, put your horse on the rail then lower your hands to his neck and expect him to stay there. You shouldn’t have to constantly tell him to stay on the path—if you do, your horse is disobedient and you have a co-dependent relationship with him. If he comes off the rail or cuts corners (moving on a path that you did not dictate), pick up the reins and correct his direction right away, scolding him as you do. Get him back on the path and drop your hands again, expecting him to stay on course.

Insisting on your horse’s obedience and focus on the task at hand is a minimal requirement for your horse to think of you as his leader. Be aware of his behavior and motivations and correct him consistently, with enough pressure that he feels like he’s gotten in trouble and thus, looks for ways to avoid getting in trouble again. Reward his good behavior with a release of pressure, a few kind words, stroking and letting him rest. With this kind of strong leadership, your horse will accept you as a capable and authoritative leader and will gladly go with you anywhere.

Keep me posted on your progress overcoming herd-bound behavior at JulieGoodnight.com/blog. I look forward to hearing from you!

Enjoy the ride!

Julie

Sidebar

Here are some related articles from my Training Library that may help you more with herd-bound, gate-sour and buddy-sour issues:

http://juliegoodnight.com/questionsNew.php?id=67

http://juliegoodnight.com/questionsNew.php?id=110

http://juliegoodnight.com/questionsNew.php?id=286

http://juliegoodnight.com/questionsNew.php?id=309

 

Find more free articles to read and refer to in Julie’s Training Library: http://juliegoodnight.com/q&a.php and watch Horse Master on RFD-TV every Monday at 12:30 and 10:30p EST —Direct TV channel 345, Dish Network channel 231 and on many cable outlets. Then visit http://www.horsemaster.tv and http://www.juliegoodnight.com/clinics for the clinic schedule, articles related to each episode, the gear used in each show, and for training DVDs and publications. Plus, see clips from each show at: http://www.horsemaster.juliegoodnight.com and check out specials and even more clips on Goodnight’s Facebook Fan Page: http://www.facebook.com/horsemaster.tv. Sign up for his free monthly newsletter at: http://juliegoodnight.com/emailsignup.php. Goodnight is proud to recommend Myler Bits, Nutramax Laboratories, Circle Y Saddles, Redmond Equine, Bucas Blankets and Spalding Fly Predators. Goodnight is the spokesperson for the Certified Horsemanship Association.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in April 2012 | No Comments »

New regulation affects horse transport safety

March 4th, 2012

New regulation affects horse transport safety           

The international Animal Transportation Association will host the first conference in the world on horse transport safety.  Held inVancouver,British ColumbiaMarch 18-21, 2012 transport by wings, wheels and waves is reviewed.

Presenters at the ATA’s 38th annual conference come fromIndia,New Zealand,Canada, the States,Germany, andFrance.

“InCanada, there are no specifications for chassis or frame strength for horse trailers,” observes Dr. Sharon Cregier, chair of the Equine Committee for the ATA.  “There are no crash tests.  Speakers at the conference will change the way we assess the transport environment for our horses.”

Conference speaker Clint Lancaster, CMfgE, CQE, is the Technical Director and engineer for the National Association of Trailer Manufacturers,Topeka,Kansas.  He travels theU.S.and the world assessing members’ conformity to current regulations.  “With regard to tow vehicles,” he reports, “improvements will be mandated in 2013.  The NATM and the Society of Automotive Engineers work together to test towing capacity claims.”

The test includes handling challenges which weren’t previously considered by manufacturers.  Mr. Lancaster will be speaking on safety, materials and technical considerations for horse trailers.

FromCanada, polo horseman, industrial designer, and biologist specializing in animal behavior, Mr. Johann Sigurdson, will discuss the necessity to employ safety standards. A design consultant and manufacturer of Safr horse trailers, Mr. Sigurdson builds on his experience as a supplier of off-road ambulances for the oil fields.  These already exceed mandated rollover protection.  “We want similar consideration for our horses.”

Maj. Dr. Rebecca Gimenez, ofGeorgia,USA, offering to the public for the first time her study of over eight hundred trailer accidents, concurs.  As primary instructor for her firm, Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue (www.tlaer.org), she has seen the need for improved trailer design and construction.

Putting it all together for horseman and hauler is Ms. Odessa Holmes of New Zealand.  “What does the need for shipping boots, head bumpers, sedatives, and risk of shipping fever tell us that needs to change about the way we transport horses?  Why do we risk injury to ourselves and our horses during loading and unloading?  Why do we need day or week long “loading clinics” to “teach” our horses to load?”  These are just some of the questions Ms. Holmes and Mr. Sigurdson will answer.

Nutrition affects behavior in transport and performance following the journey.  Dr. Dorothe Meyer, founder of iWest,Germany, will be discussing her work as nutrition consultant for the World Equestrian Games and Olympic equestrians.  Olympic riders in six countries depend on her for their healthy horses and gold medal performances.

Other distinguished speakers fromIndia,GermanyandFrancewill share their studies of the behavior of horses during transport.  Observing motion sickness in horses, using pheromones to calm horses, the perils of sea transport, and why sedatives can’t be used in flight are among the topics.

The ATA conference is the first in the world to show how transport design can accommodate horse behavior to help prevent accidents and increase horse and human safety.  It is open to horsemen of all levels of interest.  To register, visit www.animaltransportationassociation.org .

The horse track is one of five to be offered at the conference.  Founded in 1976, the ATA is an international association of livestock, pet, exotic, and specialist biological material shippers. It keeps its members notified of changes in legislation, regulations, disease outbreaks, improved shipping practices, transport design, developments in animal behavior studies, import/export issues, security and much else. It also supports programs to improve welfare through better nutrition, handling and training. It launched a program to certify competent large animal attendants for all forms of horse transport.

 Sharon Cregier, Chair

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in March 2012 | No Comments »

“Improve Collection by Adjusting Stride”

March 4th, 2012

PALM PARTNERSHIP TRAINING™

Building a Partnership with your Horse

“Improve Collection by Adjusting Stride”

by Lynn Palm

Want to improve your horse’s collection? A good exercise to help achieve collection by “rounding” the horse’s body is lengthening and shortening his stride within a gait. It works because in order to lengthen and shorten his stride, the horse must engage his hind legs and push from behind. That rounds his back and elevates his shoulders. Transitions within a gait also help the flexibility, strength, and responsiveness of his joints and muscles. This enables him to hold this configuration for longer and longer periods of time.

Start the stride-adjustment exercises on a circle because it really works your horse’s body by compressing the muscles to the inside, and stretching those on the outside. For this reason, it is important to work for equal amounts of time in both directions. To supple and strengthen your horse’s joints and muscles without stressing them, you should start by changing stride length after an entire circle. You should gradually progress to changing stride length at the half-circle mark, then at each quarter of the circle, and finally after every five strides. When you can smoothly and consistently perform the every five stride adjustments, challenge yourself and your horse further by performing them on a straight line.

Stride Adjustments on a Circle

  1. Warm up your horse. When you are ready, guide him on to a large (40- to 60-foot) circle to the right. Use markers if it helps you to stay on the circle. Pick up a slow, balanced, cadenced jog. If your horse is hot or anxious, make your circle smaller (about 25- to 30-foot) to encourage him to stay slow. Keep your contact light to allow your horse to maintain a relaxed frame on his own.
  2. When you have made one full lap, ask him to lengthen his stride to a normal jog by using your seat as an accelerator—lean back slightly with your shoulders, rotate your hips slightly forward, sit deeper in your saddle, and push on your back pockets in rhythm with your horses’ stride as though pushing a swing higher. Squeeze lightly with both legs to further engage his hindquarters and open your fingers to invite him to increase his stride. When you feel his stride lengthen (you will know it has when your seat rhythm slows down as you feel his legs reach farther for each stride), maintain the degree of seat and leg necessary to keep that cadenced, longer-striding jog.
  3. When you’ve made a full lap at the more active jog, use your aids to take it up a notch to a true extended jog. That doesn’t mean faster—your goal will be to slow his legs for a longer stride. His topline should become rounder as his hindquarters are lower to the ground and his shoulders elevate. He should remain relaxed and happy because he is balanced. To lengthen the stride, your aid sequence should be: a) use the seat more actively then the movement of the stride, supported with both leg aids to go forward—these are your driving aids. b) Then you support with your reins to keep the horse flexing his head inward. This is done with an open or indirect (neck) rein. You support the flexion of the head with the outside indirect rein and that also keeps the shoulder from moving outward. c) Keep this balance of your horse during the transition; and, after you get the lengthening of stride, maintain a light contact with the reins to round the horse and to maintain lengthening of the stride instead of quickness of stride.
  4. When you have done a full lap at the extended jog, ask your horse to move back to a normal jog, using the following aids: lean your shoulders slightly back to drop more weight into your seat as you cease to follow his rhythm; maintain contact with your legs (to keep his weight shifted rearward), but relax any pressure; and close the fingers on your outside (left) hand to reinforce the slow down message. Do a lap at the normal jog, and then ask him to transition to a slow jog. Repeat the upward and downward stride adjustments, gradually reducing the time spent in each until your horse can easily speed up or slow down every five strides.

Remember, it takes time to develop the muscles and strength in a horse needed for collection. If you take the time to develop the horse, he will last forever, sound and happy. It doesn’t matter what breed your horse is, horses are horses and they all collect in the same way!

For more information about Lynn Palm’s courses and helpful training materials, please visit www.lynnpalm.com or call 800-503-2824.

 

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in March 2012 | No Comments »

Buying a horse, do we choose them or do they choose us?

March 4th, 2012

By: Tommy Turvey

I always get asked how I did I get my horses? What did I look for? How did I know what the horse would be like? Where did I look? Well, you can do like most trainers do and look at papers, bloodlines, horse size, breed, genes, and things like that, and probably get a great horse. I believe that for the average person, you need to think of your horse as a lifelong partner. When I ask the same questions back to people, they basically tell me that the horse they have now was a rescue horse or a horse they got from a friend or the one they fell in love with and had to have.  My response is “That is exactly how I pick mine.” I got Blade from the BLM, Joker and Ace from a friend who was a Paint horse breeder, and Pokerjoe from an auction. People are surprised by my response, because most people think that I have a special formula for picking a great horse.  I have heard many theories, stories and ways to pick a horse, but after all my years of training and being around horses, I can truly say that most people don’t pick their horse, the horse picks them.  Now, I’ll be the first to say that I got Pokerjoe in an auction and it if wasn’t for my friend loaning me $200 and the guy bidding against me to stop just at the point where I didn’t have any more money, Pokerjoe and I wouldn’t be together. He also wasn’t my first choice. He was my last resort. All the other horses I wanted came and went with high prices. Well above the amount of money I brought. But for some reason, when Pokerface Joe came out, I said “This is my last chance at buying a horse that I liked to looks of.” So, by powers well above my control, the horse with the black mane, white tail and Bunny brand on his hip was mine.  I didn’t study his bloodline or even knew where he came from. All I knew was that I had a horse that was unique and I would be proud to ride him in a show. The same goes with Joker and Ace. These two horses were 3,000 miles from me, but their breeder, Cindy Kallechy was very persistent. She even trailered them 1500 miles to a show that I was at so I could see them. As you know, all it took was one look at these 1 and 2 year old black and white Paint horses and I said “SOLD”.  Now, I’m not saying to forget about everything else. You need to make sure they are sound and are vet checked and that they aren’t too much horse for your abilities. What I am saying is that it isn’t a bad thing to let your “gut” pick out your horse. I believe a horse knows when their owner saves them from a neglected home or abusive trainer. I’ve seen horses that are a problem for one person become a great horse for another and I believe that the horse is the one who made the decision to change. They felt something more with their new owner. They felt the love and the caring. Horses are a very forgiving animal. They remember the bad, but forgive it as well. So I use it to my advantage in my training and have many rules based on this behavior that they have. This helps create that special bond and keep your horse looking to you.
If you are looking for the next great race horse or cutting horse, use the tried and true methods, but if you are looking for a horse to be your partner for a lifetime, remember it isn’t bad to pick the one that made your heart skip a beat or put a sparkle in your eye. With this kind of a start remember to follow the path with your horse and let him help you decide where you both want to go. I know that every time I say goodnight to my horses I smile and can say that I love every single one of them and that they love me back. So don’t feel like you have to pick a horse with science, it’s ok to use your heart or to let that horse pick you.

Tommie Turvey is a world class entertainer, clinician, horse trainer, horse owner and stuntman. He travels hundreds of thousands of miles with his horses performing in front of millions.  Tommie is also one of the top clinicians in the US with his incredible training as he shows people how to have fun and get the most out of their horses.  Tommie’s horses, Joker and Pokerjoe have been cast into collectable Breyer horse models. Blade, his roan mustang has been in 5 feature films including “Jonah Hex” and Frank Darabont’s “the Walking Dead”. Tommie’s training facility, Liberty Horse Ranch is located in Brooksville, Florida. More information at www.equineextremist.net and www.TommieTurvey.com.

 

 

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in March 2012 | No Comments »

Spookiness

March 4th, 2012

 

Spookiness

By Ken McNabb with Katherine Lindsey Meehan

A spooky horse can be difficult to ride.  You might feel you never know what will set off the next jump, and sometimes one horse spooking will set off the horses around him.  It is easy for a spook to turn into a wreck.  So this month, we will cover how to help your horse learn to control his emotions and have confidence in you as a rider and leader, even in unfamiliar or scary situations.

There are two reasons a horse will be spooky.  One, the horse is young and inexperienced, and genuinely afraid of something.  Two, the horse is older and experienced but has learned that spooking at things gets him a release from the work he is doing.  The exercises we are going to cover will help in both situations.  For these exercises, you will want to start in a round pen if you have access to one, and then move out to an enclosed larger arena.  You will need at least one person to help you, and some potentially scary objects: a lariat rope, a large ball, a tarp, foam water noodles, or a flag are some suggestions, but you can use whatever you have on hand.  Your horse should be saddled and bridled, preferably with a snaffle bit.

Remember with this exercise, as with everything you do around your horse, your safety and your horse’s safety are the top priority.  Don’t try to push it and do something that gets you in a wreck.  Take these exercises slowly, and allow your horse to build his confidence and have success, as you build your confidence to ride him through situations where he is nervous.

Start without any spooky things in the round pen, and work your horse in figure 8’s and serpentines, focusing on softening his nose at each change of direction, and keeping his feet moving forward.   I like to work these exercises at the trot if possible.  The goal here is to get your horse’s feet moving and his attention on you.  Once you have this without distractions, have your friend come into the pen and start adding distractions.  Your responsibility as a rider is to keep working with your horse on the same exercises as if nothing has changed.  If you lose focus and start looking at the new, scary distractions, you can hardly blame your horse for doing the same!  Have your helper start small, maybe by just jumping around a little and kicking some dirt.  See how your horse handles this.  If he spooks, have your friend just keep at it while you keep at your training exercises.  If your horse does not spook when something new happens, pet him and let him know that was what you wanted.  Keep adding more distractions and scarier things, and you can move out to the larger arena once you are feeling confident.

You will never be able to expose your horse to every possible scary situation and thing he might encounter in his lifetime.  So instead of trying to train for every specific thing you might come across,  instead you are teaching your horse to control his emotions and look to you for guidance in any situation.  Remember, the important thing is not how your horse responds to the scary object.  The important thing is how he responds to you and your cues in the situation.  Don’t get after your horse and start punishing him if he spooks, just keep working on your forward motion, changes of direction, and flexing.  If you start punishing your horse every time he spooks, it just adds more anxiety to the situation as he anticipates the punishment, and that is not what you are after.  However, don’t let the spook be a release.  If your horse spooks, drive him right back up to the speed he was moving forward before the spook, or even a little faster.  If he learns that spooking is a way to get the chance to stop and rest, your problem will just get worse.

Try to resist the urge to grab your horn for security when you think you are getting into a situation where your horse might spook.  If you need to, grab the horn once he has spooked, but if you drop one rein and go for the horn before anything even happens, you take away your ability to guide your horse confidently with both reins.  He needs your calm and clear direction most when you are coming up to something scary, and by taking that away you are sending him the wrong message about your leadership ability.

Most of the problems we have with our horses are caused by something we are doing or not doing in our training and riding.  So remember to keep your attention on your training and your horse in all situations, and in turn he will learn to keep his attention on you and have confidence in you to guide him through anything.  Enjoy your horses and until next time, may God bless the trails you ride.

For more information on Ken McNabb’s programs call us at 307-645-3149 or go to www.kenmcnabb.com.

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in March 2012 | No Comments »

Does Your Horse Respect You? Or Does He Have a Bad Attitude?

March 4th, 2012

Julie Goodnight Horsemanship Training

Goodnight Training Stables, Inc.

PO Box397

Poncha Springs,CO81242

press@juliegoodnight.com

(719) 530-0531

Julie Goodnight takes on topics you want to know more about in her blog. Here, in this excerpt from her blog, she answers an intriguing question about horse and human relationships. For more thoughts from Julie, watch her Horse Master TV show each Monday and Saturday night on RFD-TV and read more from her blog at http://JulieGoodnight.com/blog.

High Res Photo of Julie: http://juliegoodnight.com/images/JulieandDually.jpg or http://juliegoodnight.com/images/ByHeidiNylandforTroxel_MG_8927.jpg (NEW BIO PICTURE CHOICES)

Photo Credit: Heidi Nyland Melocco, www.wholepicture.org

I see it all the time at clinics, expos and at TV shoots. Sometimes it’s between untrained horses and inexperienced riders/handlers—a constant battle of the wills; but sometimes the opposite is true—often I see experienced handlers with trained horses and everyone is going through the motions but the horse has his ears laid back and a sour expression on his face. Maybe he’s doing what’s asked in the groundwork, but he’s giving subtle signs of disrespect such as crowding you with his shoulder or moving sassily with his hind-end cocked for action.

There are many causes for this type of adversarial relationship with your horse. Generally there exists poor communication between horse and human—either the rider giving conflicting signals (a painfully common occurrence) or the person over-cues the horse (then jerks back on the reins when the horse goes too fast). Or the rider drills the horse relentlessly, never recognizing the efforts of the horse and not releasing and rewarding the horse often enough.

Often a horse’s crankiness comes from the feeling it is being shouted at when it knows the cue well and is perfectly willing to do it. The cues of novice horsemen are often awkward and obtuse or, as an experienced handler trains a horse new skills, the cues are exaggerated and reactionary. But the horse is an extremely fast learner—he learns the cue and appropriate response right away, but the rider/handler doesn’t lighten his aids and is still, in effect, yelling at the horse to do it.

The horse has every right to be cranky when it feels like it is being yelled at constantly and for no reason. Too aggressive cues (especially when using a hard stick as a “motivator”) and too many repetitions can make the most willing horse begin to display signs of irritation, aggravation and even rebellion. Often, when a person has an adversarial relationship with their horse, it stems from a failure to read the signs of submission and obedience in the horse and thus, the “golden moment” is missed.

When a horse shows that he is willing to acquiesce to your authority and you keep hounding him—do it again, and again, and again—he starts feeling like he is being bullied. Some horses will take the bullying indefinitely while others will begin to fight back; but in all horses that are bullied, resentment will build and an adversarial relationship will develop.

Learning to “read” a horse, looking for the subtle changes in your horse’s behavior and emotions and giving the appropriate release of pressure, will make him eager to please you. Looking for changes in the elevation of the head, the licking and chewing when he understands, the relaxing of his frame, the head bobbing to the ground and rewarding this compliant and submissive behavior by letting him rest and giving him lots of praise will develop a horse that is respectful and eager to do your bidding.

At some point, you need to trust your horse and give him the latitude to prove he can and will do what you ask from a simple request and not from forcefulness. Sometimes this means loosening the reins or putting down the stick and asking him softly and kindly. He may make a mistake every now and then, which you should tactfully correct, but if you’re always pushing him around and doubting he’ll do what you ask, he’ll lose his willingness.

I don’t want a horse that is “jumping through the hoops” but with a bad attitude. I don’t want a horse that has animosity toward me and is only responding for fear of getting walloped with a stick. Instead, I want a horse that looks up to me, is always willing and attentive to my commands and who is eager to please me and win my approval–one that wants to be with me and knows that I will always treat him fairly and recognize his efforts.

Horses, being herd animals, are strongly inclined to seek out the approval of their peers. Acceptance into the herd is essential for their survival. I want a horse that seeks out my approval, is willing to try anything to get it and who craves the stroking and petting he gets from me for a job well done.

Beyond all else, horses seek comfort and security. That’s why making the right thing easy and the wrong thing hard is an incredibly effective training technique and why horses thrive on strong leadership—for the security it gives them. Horses gain security in knowing that rules will be enforced, good effort will be rewarded and discipline will be meted out when necessary.

In spite of what many trainers would like you to believe, there is no “cookie cutter” training recipe that works on every horse. Each horse is an individual with a distinct temperament and its own experience and view of the world. Your training methods have to be adjusted to the individual—the strong pressure used to motivate one horse might over-whelm another horse. But all horses seek comfort and security and all horses respond to good leadership.

It’s not to say that I never get in a fight with a horse—sometimes it is unavoidable. But I try not to start a fight with a horse—the risk of losing is too great. When you do butt heads with a horse, it should be a very temporary situation and should result in the horse acquiescing and your acceptance and appreciation of his subordinate attitude. If you continue to treat him as an adversary after that score is settled, he will continue to be one.

When you examine the relationship you have with your own horse, would you say it is cooperative and based on mutual respect? Does your horse respect your authority, look up to you and seek your approval? Or does he constantly challenge your authority or do what you ask of him but with resistance and a bad attitude? If the latter is true, it’s time to examine your relationship, see what culpability you have and look for ways to make a positive change. I love to help people (and their horses) make this change—so maybe I’ll see you at a clinic this year!

Enjoy the ride,

Julie

Find more free articles to read and refer to in Julie’s Training Library: http://juliegoodnight.com/q&a.php and watch Horse Master on RFD-TV every Monday at 12:30 and 10:30p EST —Direct TV channel 345, Dish Network channel 231 and on many cable outlets. Then visit http://www.horsemaster.tv and http://www.juliegoodnight.com/clinics for the clinic schedule, articles related to each episode, the gear used in each show, and for training DVDs and publications. Plus, see clips from each show at: http://www.horsemaster.juliegoodnight.com and check out specials and even more clips on Goodnight’s Facebook Fan Page: http://www.facebook.com/horsemaster.tv. Sign up for his free monthly newsletter at: http://juliegoodnight.com/emailsignup.php. Goodnight is proud to recommend Myler Bits, Nutramax Laboratories, Circle Y Saddles, Redmond Equine, Bucas Blankets and Spalding Fly Predators. Goodnight is the spokesperson for the Certified Horsemanship Association.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in March 2012 | No Comments »

Selecting a Riding Instructor

September 1st, 2011

PALM PARTNERSHIP
TRAINING™

Building a
Partnership with your Horse

Selecting a Riding
Instructor

By Lynn Palm

To improve in any sport, you need
the help of an Instructor/Coach. A riding instructor is a key player in the success
with your horse. Most of the time, “an eye on the ground” is your
best tool for improving your riding skills and gaining knowledge.

 

As with horse training, the profession of riding
instruction does not require a license or official degree. There are many
riding instructors out there with a wide range of teaching abilities,
knowledge, and experience. It is up to you, the rider, to evaluate the person
you are considering to serve as your instructor.

 

Although you need a good working relationship with
your horse trainer, the interaction between you and the trainer is not as
important as it is with a riding instructor. This means that you need to do an
honest evaluation of your personality and how it mixes with the instructor’s
personality. This is important if learning is to take place. Just as a good
classroom teacher will keep you motivated, a riding instructor with good
teaching skills and a personality that works with yours will motivate you to
learn. The opposite is also true!

 

Teaching is the Key

One place to start with your search for a riding
instructor is to seek out a person who has credentials from a professionally
acknowledged riding instructor certification program. The United States
Dressage Federation is one organization that has instructor certification
programs based on a professionally accepted curriculum that develops both riding and teaching
skills. Professional horsemen’s associations or breed associations also can
help you find certified riding instructors practicing near you. Be sure to ask
the person you are considering for your instructor if he/she has completed any
type of instructor certification program. Often instructors who have achieved
these credentials have them proudly displayed on their office wall.

 

In the United States, show ring success
has been the traditional way of gauging a person’s credentials as a horseman.
While show ring wins do not indicate a person’s ability to teach, they can
provide another way to evaluate an instructor’s abilities and professionalism.
So, do consider a potential instructor’s riding experience. Ask the instructor
to provide you with a list of his/her riding achievements. Evaluate the quality
and type of their accomplishments. Have they demonstrated proficiency in your
area of interest? Is their level of achievement sufficient to indicate a high
degree of skill?

 

Often, news about a “good” riding instructor comes
by “word of mouth.” References from riding students can give you helpful
feedback about the instructor’s professionalism, teaching skills, and ability
to build a bond with students that promotes learning. Ask to view the potential
instructor teaching a lesson, and observe the instructor’s students. Their
riding skills, knowledge, and respect for their equine partners reflect the
quality of riding skills and teaching philosophies that the instructor has
transmitted to them.

 

Remember, an instructor can also destroy
a rider with the incorrect information and by teaching the use of forceful
techniques. Use your common sense at all times when selecting and working with
an instructor.

 

Before selecting your instructor,
first observe several lessons given by that person. Then try a lesson yourself
either on your own horse or a school horse. Whether in the barn, leading the
horse, mounting, or in the arena, your overall impression should be that the
instructor’s first concern is for the safety of the horse and rider.

 

Before starting a class, the
instructor should double check the fitting of the tack for each horse and
rider. Girths, stirrups, and other tack should be properly adjusted. The
instructor should inspect all riders to make sure they are wearing properly
fitting, approved safety helmets and appropriate boots. If the lesson is given
at the instructor’s facility, look for evidence of his/her concern for safety,
upkeep of tack, and appreciation for his/her horse’s health and well being in
the general management of the operation.

 

Once the lesson is underway,
observe the instructor’s teaching style and techniques. Good instructors make
learning interesting. They are able to modify a lesson to accommodate
differences in the riders’ age, skill level, and understanding. The
presentation style should relate to the rider audience. Parents who are
observing lessons for children should take an active part in evaluating an
instructor and not assume that all teaching is quality instruction.

 

Teaching Should Build Skills

The lesson should challenge the
rider through simple, gradual steps that encourage building the skills needed
to achieve the lesson’s objectives. Ask yourself if the instructor’s
communication skills are clear and concise. Are the lesson’s objectives clearly
stated by the instructor at the beginning of the lesson and summarized at the
end? Is the instructor easy to hear and understand? Does his/her voice tone
punctuate the lesson’s important points and reinforce its objectives?

 

Teaching is a two-way process
between instructor and rider. Instructors should help students answer the
question “why” for every skill that they learn. Because riding is a sport and
lessons typically cannot be immediately perfected, it is important that the
student understands the principles behind each new skill. I believe that when a
student understands why a skill is done, then, he/she will have a greater
incentive to practice and perfect it. A good instructor takes the time
necessary to answer a rider’s questions and get feedback that allows him/her to
evaluate the rider’s understanding.

 

A rider must realize that
instructors are not miracle workers. Learning to ride is like life! Some days
everything goes great, and other days bring harder challenges that take more
time and effort to master. Above all, learning to ride should be fun and bring
you into greater partnership with your horse.

 

When you find a great riding instructor, he/she will
become a very important person in your life. A great instructor has the ability
to make you and your horse very happy as you progress in your riding and/or the
training of your horse. The relationship between rider and instructor is a
partnership, and the instructor reaps rewards from helping riders to grow and
improve.

 

Instructional videos and DVDs are
good tools in addition to your lessons with your personal instructor. I have
several series that are excellent instructional aids. In my Hunt Seat Equitation series, I teach
and critique riders for the show ring. I teach and coach riders in my Exercises for Equestrians series as
well. The Palm Partnership Training
Course and the Palm Partnership
Training Agility Course are also excellent.

 

To learn more about Palm Partnership
Training™ resources, visit www.lynnpalm.com
or call 1-800-503-2824.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in September 2011 | No Comments »

HORSE HEALTH PRODUCTS INTRODUCES FOUR NEW PRODUCTS

September 1st, 2011

AND A NEW
LOOK FOR THE PRODUCT LINE

 

PHOENIX – August 3, 2011 – Horse Health Products has been the brand pragmatic
performance horse people have relied upon for more than 35 years.  This
year the company introduces a new unifying look to the product line to help
busy horse owners locate them on the shelf.

Four new products are being added to the Horse
Health Products line making it a more comprehensive line of quality products
for serious horse care at an affordable price for owners and trainers of
multiple horses.

Ambush™
Insecticide & Repellent is a water-based, ready-to-use formula that
is economical and effective for use on horses as well as dogs.  It kills
and repels stable flies, horse flies, face flies, deer flies, house flies, horn
flies, mosquitoes, gnats, ticks, fleas, chiggers and lice.  This non-oily
insecticide repellent contains pyrethrins, piperonyl butoxide technical and
permethrin.  Ambush™ Insecticide & Repellent is available in a
one-quart bottle with sprayer.

EquiFusion™
2-in-1 Shampoo & Conditioner is a biodegradable, phosphate-free,
shampoo and conditioner that cleans and moisturizes hair in one-step!  The
high-sudsing formula penetrates the hair to remove dirt and debris, while deep
conditioner and coconut oil ingredients restore moisture to the hair for a
soft, silky feel and add shine to the coat.  Properly pH-balanced to
return the horse’s skin pH to its normal, healthy level; biodegradable and
phosphate-free formula is gentle enough for everyday use and won’t harm the
environment or marine life.  This efficient product rinses off easily and
thoroughly, leaving no residue and won’t cause excessive build-up.
EquiFusion™ 2-in-1 Shampoo & Conditioner offers exceptional value in an
economical gallon size bottle.

Reach™
Joint Supplement supports healthy joints with a combination of the most
popular joint care ingredients on the market.  It contains 5000 mg of
Glucosamine along with MSM and Chondroitin, and an antioxidant to help remove
damaging free radicals and maintain cartilage, connective tissue and joint
mobility.  Reach™ Joint Supplement is available in a 2.815-pound container
which provides a 45-day supply at the one-ounce maintenance serving size.

Shur
Hoof™ Hoof Supplement is specially formulated to help strengthen weak,
cracked and dry hoofs.  It contains 20 mg of biotin per ounce and the
essential amino acids methionine and lysine so vital for growth and
tissue.  These alfalfa pellets mix easily with all types of feed.
Sure Hoof™ Hoof Supplement is available in a 2.815-pound container which
provides a 45-day supply at the one-ounce maintenance serving size.

Visit www.farnamhorse.com for more information about these four new products and the
many other Quality Products for Serious Horse
Care™ including: Red Cell® vitamin-mineral supplement for fueling championship
horses, Horse Health Equine
Ivermectin Paste 1.87%, Electro Dex® electrolytes, America’s original equine
electrolyte, Shur Hoof™ Dressing and IceTight® 24-Hour Poultice.

 

Farnam Companies, Inc.

Over the past 65 years, Farnam Companies, Inc., has grown to
become one of the most widely recognized names in the animal health products
industry and has become one of the largest marketers of equine products in the
country. No one knows horses better than Farnam. That’s why no one offers a
more complete selection of horse care products. Farnam® Horse
Products serve both the pleasure horse and the performance horse markets with
products for fly control, deworming, hoof and leg care, grooming, wound
treatment, leather care, plus nutritional supplements. For information about
Farnam® Horse Products in the U.S. call toll
free at (800) 234-2269 or visit www.farnamhorse.com.

 

Farnam – Your Partner in Horse Care™

 

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in September 2011 | No Comments »

« Older Entries